Tinned pulses are convenient. There is no question. But dried beans, chickpeas and lentils cost about a quarter as much, take up less space in the cupboard, and produce a noticeably better cooking liquid and texture. The reason most people stick with tins is that the technique of cooking dried pulses feels mysterious and prone to disaster. It is not — once you know a few things.
Lentils need no soaking
Red lentils, brown lentils, green lentils — none of them need to be soaked. Rinse them, pick out any stones, and cook them in plenty of salted water until tender. Red lentils take 15-20 minutes; brown and green take 25-35. They are perhaps the easiest pulse to cook from dried, and there is no reason to ever buy tinned lentils.
Beans and chickpeas: to soak or not
Larger pulses cook faster, more evenly, and to a better texture if you soak them. The old advice was overnight in cold water. That works perfectly. A 6-12 hour soak in cold water is ideal.
If you forget, the quick method is to cover them in plenty of water, boil for 2 minutes, take off the heat, and let them sit for an hour. Then drain and cook. This works fine, though traditionalists prefer the long soak.
Always discard the soaking water before cooking. It contains compounds that cause digestive discomfort for some people.
The salt question
There is a long-standing debate about when to add salt. Some say it toughens the beans if added early. Others (with backing from food science) say it actually helps the skins stay tender. The modern consensus is: salt the cooking water from the start. About 1 teaspoon per litre.
The acid question
This one is real. Tomatoes, lemon juice, vinegar or wine added early will keep the beans hard no matter how long you cook them. Save the acid for the last 15 minutes, or add the cooked beans to a tomato-based sauce only once they are already tender.
Bicarb of soda
A small pinch of bicarbonate of soda in the soaking water (about 1/4 teaspoon per cup of dried beans) helps soften the skins of chickpeas and other tough-skinned pulses. Some Middle Eastern cooks use this trick for hummus — it gives that silky restaurant texture.
Pressure cooker is your friend
A pressure cooker reduces the cooking time of chickpeas from an hour and a half to about 25 minutes. For beans, expect 15-25 minutes depending on size. If you cook pulses regularly, an electric pressure cooker pays for itself quickly.
How to tell when they are done
A properly cooked bean has no chalkiness in the middle — taste one. The texture should be creamy. If they are still firm with a slight resistance, give them more time. Over-cooked is better than under-cooked when it comes to pulses.
Save the cooking liquid
The water you cook chickpeas and beans in is called aquafaba (for chickpeas especially) and is a culinary treasure. Use it as a vegetable stock, whisk it into hummus for silkiness, or even whip it like egg whites for vegan meringues.
Cook a big batch
Cooking dried pulses takes the same time whether you make a little or a lot. Cook double or triple what you need and freeze the rest in 400ml portions (equivalent to a can). They thaw quickly and save you from buying tins.
What about lentils for daal?
For South Asian dal recipes, soaking is helpful but not essential. A 30-minute soak shortens the cooking time and gives a creamier texture. For khichdi, harira and other one-pot rice-and-lentil dishes, the lentils cook with everything else from dry.
